Yves Saint-Laurent (designer)
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- This article is about the fashion designer. For the clothing brand, see Yves Saint-Laurent (brand).
| Yves Saint Laurent | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Name | Yves Saint Laurent |
| Nationality | French |
| Birth date | August 1, 1936 |
| Birth place | Oran, French Algeria (now Algeria) |
| Working life | |
| Label name | Yves Saint Laurent |
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (born August 1, 1936 in Oran, French Algeria), is a French fashion designer, considered among the greatest of the 20th century. In 1985, in his book, "Couture: The Great Fashion Designers", Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the cuture's rise from its Sixties ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-wear reputable".
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The son of an insurance company manager, Yves Saint-Laurent was born on the 1st of August 1936 at 11:15am in Oran, then French Algeria. Saint Laurent left home at the age of 17 to work for the French designer Christian Dior. Following Dior's death in 1957, Yves, at the age of 22, was put in charge of the effort of saving the Dior house from financial ruin.
Shortly after this success, he was conscripted to serve in the French army during the Algerian War of Independence. After 20 days, the stress of being hazed by fellow soldiers led the fragile Saint Laurent to be institutionalized in a French mental hospital, where he underwent psychiatric treatment, including electroshock therapy, for a nervous breakdown.
In 1962, in the wake of his nervous breakdown, Saint Laurent was released from Dior and started his own label, YSL, financed by his companion, Pierre Bergé. The couple split romantically in 1976 but remained business partners.[1] During the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, safari jackets for men and women, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots, including the creation of arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking suit. He also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, '30s and '40s. He was the first, in 1966, to popularize ready-to-wear in an attempt to democratize fashion, with Rive Gauche and the boutique of the same name.[2] He was also the first designer to use black models in his runway shows.[3] Among his muses were Loulou de la Falaise, the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish fashion model, Betty Catroux, the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat and wife of a French decorator, Talitha Pol-Getty, who died of drug overdose in 1971, and Catherine Deneuve, the iconic French actress. Ambassador to the couturier during the late 1970s and early 80s was London socialite millionairess Diane Boulting-Casserley Vandelli, making the brand ever more popular amongst the European jet-set and upper classes.
In 1983, he became the first living fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Saint Laurent retired in 1998 and has since then become increasingly reclusive and has spent a much of his time at his house in Marrakech, Morocco.
In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French president Jacques Chirac.
He also created a foundation with Pierre Bergé in Paris to trace the history of the house of YSL, complete with 15,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of clothing.
In 2007, Yves designed Justin Timberlake's tour clothing for his FutureSex/LoveShow.
Like Chanel, Saint Laurent has created a unique style which for decades has been synonymous of the most refined and modern elegance. He was the first, in the 60s to understand that haute couture could take its inspiration from the street, not limiting itself to be a closed world without any relation with everyday life. His first collection for Christian Dior in 1958, after his mentor’s death, was a big sensation. In the elegant rooms of Avenue Montaigne, he introduced a gritty and irreverent new look, very unpolitically correct for the formality of the period. It was already possible to sense the originality of the new designer, who, during all his career, has been a constant innovator, a modernizer of the female image.
Decades before Giorgio Armani he had the intuition to glamourize for women some items taken from the male wardrobe, such as the blazer, the tuxedo, the pant suit, the leather jacket. His devouring passion for art has enabled him to create clothes inspired by Picasso, Matisse, Braque, David Hockney, Mondrian, etc. in a time when coupling art with fashion was not yet an abused idea as it is today. Again, much in advance on others, he was the first to enrich his collections with ethnic and folk elements coming from Africa, Spain, Morocco, Russia and China. His enduring love for the theatre and for literature, Marcel Proust being his tutelary deity, have also been transposed into his clothes.
- ^ Cole, Shaun (2002), "Saint Laurent, Yves", glbtq.com, <http://www.glbtq.com/arts/saintlaurent_y.html>. Retrieved on 2007-08-25.
- ^ Alicia Drake. The Beautiful Fall: Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. Little, Brown and Company, 2006. p.49.
- ^ http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20010816/ai_n14411757
- Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985) "Couture: The Great Fashion Designers" Thames & Hudson.
- Pierre Bergé (1997). Yves Saint Laurent: The Universe of Fashion. Rizzoli. ISBN 0-7893-0067-2
- Alice Rawsthorn (1996). Yves Saint Laurent Nan A. Talese. ISBN 0-385-47645-0
- Biography of Yves Saint Laurent
- Yves Saint Laurent shuts its doors—BBC World October 31, 2002
- All About Yves— Jim Leherer News Hour January 16, 2002 By Jessica Moore
- Yves Saint Laurent announces retirement—CNN January 7, 2002
- All About Yves: As the incomparable Yves Saint Laurent celebrates his 40th anniversary as a coutourier, the world salutes his genius.—Julie K.L. Dam, Time Magazine, August 3, 1998.