Spinning (textiles)

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A hand-turned spinning wheel in action
A hand-turned spinning wheel in action

Spinning is the process of creating yarn (or thread, rope, cable) from various raw fiber materials. In spinning, separate fibers are twisted together to bind them into a long, stronger yarn. Characteristics of the yarn vary based on the material used, fiber length and alignment, quantity of fiber used and degree of twist.

Contents

Z-twist and S-twist yarns
Z-twist and S-twist yarns

The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as Z-twist or S-twist according to the direction of spinning (see diagram). Tightness of twist is measured in TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch)[1]

Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or plied to form a thicker yarn. Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist.[2]

Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as singles without plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using Andean plying, in which the single is first wound around one hand in a specific manner that allows unwinding both ends at once without tangling. Navajo plying is another method of producing a three-ply yarn, in which one strand of singles is looped around itself in a manner similar to crochet and the resulting three parallel strands twisted together. This method is often used to keep colors together on singles dyed in sequential colors. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.

Cones of yarn for industrial use
Cones of yarn for industrial use

A tightly spun wool yarn with no air in it is called worsted; it is handspun from a roving or combed top, and the fibers all lie in the same direction as the yarn. A woolen yarn, in contrast, is handspun from a rolag, where the fibers are not as strictly aligned to the yarn created. The woolen yarn thus captures much more air, and makes for a softer and generally bulkier yarn. A common misconception is wool spun from rolags may not be as strong, but the strength of a yarn is actually based on the length of hair fiber and the degree of twist. When working with shorter hairs, such as llama or angora rabbit, the spinner may choose to integrate longer fibers, such as mohair, to prevent yarn breakage. Wool may be spun before or after washing, although excessive amounts of lanolin may make spinning difficult, especially when using a drop-spindle. Over-washing prior to spinning may cause felting, making carding difficult and often leading to unusable wool fiber. Often a spinner will spin using varying techniques for hand-carded and rolag based yarns, and thus make a semi-worsted yarn.[3] Wool can be dyed at any time, but is often dyed before carding due to convenience.

The earliest spinning probably involved simply twisting the fibers in the hand. Later a stick, called a spindle, was used to add the twist and hold the twisted fiber[citation needed]. Later the spinning wheel was developed which allowed continuous and faster yarn production. Early spinning wheels were foot or hand powered.

A mule spinning machine at Quarry Bank Mill, UK.
A mule spinning machine at Quarry Bank Mill, UK.

Modern powered spinning, originally done by water or steam power but now done by electricity, is vastly faster than hand-spinning. New techniques including Open End spinning or rotor spinning can produce yarns at rates in excess of 40 meters per second.

Hobby or small scale artisan spinners spin their own yarn to control specific yarn qualities and produce yarn that is not widely available commercially, but can be found online and in many local yarn stores. Handspinners also may spin for self-sufficiency, a sense of accomplishment, or a sense of connection to history and the land. In addition, they may take up spinning for its meditative qualities.

Within the recent past, many new spinners have joined into this ancient process, innovating the craft and creating new techniques. From using many new applications of dyeing before spinning, to mixing in random elements (Christmas Garland, eccentric beads, money, etc.) that would not be in a traditional yarn, to creating new techniques like coiling[4], this craft is constantly evolving and shifting.

Yarn can be made from a wide variety of materials:

  1. ^ Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ISBN 0-13-118769-4, p. 197
  2. ^ Plying Yarn with a Spinning Wheel, The Joy of Handspinning
  3. ^ Woolen, Semi-Woolen, Semi-Worsted, Worsted Spinning
  4. ^ Toil, Toil, Coils and Bubbles, Knitty Magazine

  • Amos, Alden (2001). The Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave Press. ISBN 1883010888
  • Boeger, Alexis (2005). Handspun Revolution, Pluckyfluff. ISBN 0976725207
  • Ross, Mabel (1987). Essentials of Handspinning, Robin and Russ Handweavers. ISBN 0950729205
  • Simmons, Paula (1982). Spinning for Softness and Speed, Seattle: Madrona. ISBN 0914842870


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