Soi Cowboy

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Soi Cowboy at night
Soi Cowboy at night

Soi Cowboy is a red-light district in Bangkok, Thailand. A short street with some 40 bars, it is similar to Nana Plaza and Patpong and caters mainly to tourists and expatriates.

It is located near Sukhumvit Road, between Sukhumvit Soi 21 (also called Soi Asoke) and Soi 23 (13°44′12.5″N, 100°33′45″E), within walking distance from the SkyTrain's "Asok Station" and the Bangkok Metro's "Sukhumvit Station".

The go go bars follow the pattern common in Thailand: alcoholic drinks are served and women in bikinis dance on a stage. Topless or even nude dancing occasionally occurs in some bars, but remains technically illegal. Most of the dancers are in fact prostitutes and will join a customer if he pays a "bar fine" to the bar and a separate fee to the woman. Sexual services usually take place in the tourist's hotel room. Thai customers usually are not admitted to these bars unless accompanied by foreigners.

There are also a number of restaurants at Soi Cowboy, including what is perhaps Bangkok's best known fish and chips shop.

The area is named after T. G. "Cowboy" Edwards, a retired American airman who opened one of the first bars there in 1973 or 1977 (sources differ). A tall African-American, Edwards got his nickname because he invariably wore a cowboy hat.

Soi Cowboy during the day, with Fanny's, Dollhouse and Midnite Bar visible on the left
Soi Cowboy during the day, with Fanny's, Dollhouse and Midnite Bar visible on the left

One staple of the Soi Cowboy nightlife are elephants frequently marched up and down the street by their handlers who are in the business of selling elephant food to tourists.

When Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra was elected in 2001, his government instituted a "social order" campaign. As part of this campaign, all bars and nightclubs had to close by 2 am, later changed to 1 am for all areas not officially designated as "entertainment zones". (Unlike Patpong, Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza were not so designated). A mandatory midnight closing time was even discussed. As of 2006, the Soi Cowboy bars switch off their outside neon lights by 1 am and usually close at 2 am.

Soi Cowboy's reputation suffered a temporary blow when, as part of the same social order campaign, the area was closed off by police one Friday night in November 2003 and all workers and patrons were required to submit to urine testing for drugs.

Near their entrances, all go go bars carry government-mandated signs in Thai and English; the slightly humorous English text reads

    NO-ONE INSIDE
   UNDER 20 YEARS
     DRUG-FREE

During the 2004 International AIDS Conference in Bangkok, a bead sculpture made in Soi Cowboy was displayed as part of the cultural program.

On June 9, 2006, Thailand commemorated the 60-year anniversary of King Bhumibol Adulyadej's accession to the throne. In the evening the employees of all Soi Cowboy bars celebrated the event by stepping outside for about half an hour, holding candles and wearing yellow "We love the King" shirts, and finished by singing the national anthem.

In 2000, the Norwegian group Getaway People released a song called Soi Cowboy about this area.

The Sun City Girls also have a song called Soi Cowboy on their 1996 album 330,003 Crossdressers From Beyond The Rig Veda.

Actor Hugh Grant and his entourage visited Soi Cowboy in December 2003, while shooting the movie Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason. The Tilac Bar and several Soi Cowboy bar girls are seen in the film. A London tabloid, The Sun, wrote on 23 December 2003 that Grant was chased by bar girls and had to flee, but that appears to be false.

Two 1-hour episodes of the British comedy/drama Auf Wiedersehen, Pet were shot in the Summer of 2004 in Bangkok, partly in Soi Cowboy.

The bars Moonshine Joint and Dollhouse appear in Jordan Clark's 2005 documentary Falang: Behind Bangkok's Smile which takes a rather critical view of sex tourism.

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